The first time you are out climbing can be overwhelming — at the gym or outdoors. Not just because of the effort in learning climbing skills but also because of how many weird terms rock climbers use as a matter of fact. It always helps to know some of the basic terms to keep up with the experienced guys:
The Most Common Rock-Climbing Terms Explained
by Avathi Outdoors | Rock Climbing
May 22, 2020
Jakkalli
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Aid climbing —
A type of rock climbing where you use ropes, or fixed bolts or other artificial aids rather than just the rock itself (unlike free climbing) to complete the rock climb.
Anchor: A fixed point on a rock climb where the rope is attached to the rock or a stable feature (could be trees sometimes). The climber is attached to the anchor with the help of a bolt, sling, or rope.
Approach: The walk/hike or distance you cover to get to the base of a climb.
Arete: A vertical edge that projects out of a face. The edge is used as a hold to climb.
Auto-lock: A system of locking on a carabiner or a safety device that locks itself when released as opposed to manually locking it.
Back-up: An additional protection provided to a safety device to provide redundancy.
Belay: A system used by a partner climber to control the length of rope the climber has. It is used to stop the climber from falling off to the ground or to manage the length of the fall.
Beta: Prior information about a climb that is shared between climbers. Could include climbing techniques, crux, resting positions etc.
Bolt: Expanding metal pieces drilled into the rock to attach hangers on which quick-draws or carabiners can be clipped for protection.
Bouldering: Climbing rocks without the use of ropes. Usually about 12–15 feet in height. Use crash pads and spotters to keep the climber safe in case of a fall.
Chalk: Magnesium Carbonate powder used by climbers to keep hands dry. Most important rock-climbing accessory after shoes. Particularly for people who have sweaty hands.
Chimney: A wide crack big enough for a climber to fit in his/her entire body while climbing. Climbing in a chimney involves using hands and feet on opposing sides of the rock to move up.
Cleaning a route: Involves removing all safety equipment used to climb the route.
Climbing Grades: A convention used to describe the difficulty and danger involved in climbing a route.
Crack: A crack/opening in a rock used for hand or feet while climbing. Cracks can be really small (finger width) to large (ability to fit whole body).
Crag: A commonly used term for a rock-climbing area.
Crimp: A very thin climbing hand hold.
Crux: The hardest section/move of a rock-climbing route.
Dihedral: Also called a ‘book’ problem. A rock climb where two faces of a rock meet at roughly right angles. The rock climber climbs by applying counter pressure on both faces.
Figure of 8: A very common and safe knot woven in the shape of 8. Recommended for beginners to learn as it is easy to learn and difficult to screw-up.
Flash: A style of completing a rock-climbing route in the first attempt with prior knowledge (beta) about the route and moves. Climbing on the first attempt without prior information would be called on-sight.
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Free Climb: As opposed to aid-climbing, free climbing involves climbing a route with only hands and feet. Rope and other safety equipment are used to arrest a fall.
Free Solo: A style of free climbing where ropes and other safety equipment are not used. Only climbing shoes and chalk are used.
Gym: In the climbing world, a ‘gym’ means a place with climbing walls with holds used to simulate the experience of a rock climbing or to train for rock climbing.
Jam: Instead of holding on to rock features, jamming involves wedging your hands (or feet) into a crack and using that to climb up a rock.
Jug: Large and most comfortable holds on a rock-climbing route.
Layback: The most common technique on corners, cracks or aretes. A technique where you grab the crack with your hands, push your body back, keep your feet in front of you and try to move up. Usually, very intense, and physical moves.
Lead climbing: The first person to start a climb on ropes (sport or trad) and involves placing protection as the climber keeps moving up the rock.
Mantle: A technique where you push down on the hold with your hands — usually lower than your hips - and bring up your feet to the hand level. Very useful for topping out on routes.
Off width: Cracks that are too big to jam your hands and smaller than chimneys so you cannot fit your body in. Considered the hardest and gruesome form of crack climbing.
Onsight: A style of completing a rock-climbing route in the first attempt without any prior knowledge (beta) about the route and moves. Climbing on the first attempt with prior information would be called Flash.
Pocket: Small holes (deep or shallow) in the rock that allow the climber to fit a few fingers (usually one to three).
Project: A climbing route above your current climbing level. Typically requires multiple sessions, months or even years to complete.
Pump: The throbbing, burning pain a climber feels in forearms due to lactic acid build up.
Quickdraws: A quickdraw is a safety equipment used in sport climbing. It allows the climber to clip the rope into the anchors or other protection while lead climbing. It has two carabiners connected to each other by some material (called dog-bone).
Redpoint: To lead a climb entirely in one go without falling but after multiple attempts.
Runout: A long distance between two pieces of protection usually making it unsafe in case of a fall or making it mentally harder for the climber.
Send: Finishing a route without falling, resting or taking aid.
Slab: A type of rock climb where the angle of the route is less than vertical. Usually less intense on the upper body and requires better footwork.
Smear: A foot work technique where the climber presses the sole directly on the face and uses friction to make the move.
Speed climbing: A form of indoor climbing where two climbers race to the top side by side on set routes. More like a 100m sprint of climbing. In rock climbing, speed climbing is quite popular on some iconic routes like the Nose on El Capitan
Sport climbing: Involves rock climbing on ropes and relies on permanent anchors fixed to the rock for protection. The climber places protection on anchors and clips the rope to the protection.
Stemming: The technique used to climb dihedrals or corners. Involves pushing on both faces of the rock and moving up.
Side cut or Side pull: Any climbing hold that is oriented in a way that requires pulling sideways.
Top rope: A style of climbing where a climber is attached to the rope which is passing though the top anchor before the climber gets on the climb. It is a much safer form of climbing than lead climbing and is generally recommended for beginner rock climbers.
Trad climbing: Trad climbing (or traditional climbing) is a style of rock climbing where the climber places all protection as he climbs on to the rock surfaces and removes all of them at the end of the climb. It is one of the purest forms of climbing and more risky than other forms of climbing.
Undercling: Any hold you need to grab from underneath i.e. with your fingers pulling up towards your face.
Whipper: A long and dynamic fall in lead climbing where the climber gets whipped around.
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