Tips for Beginners - How to get better at Rock Climbing

by Aravind Selvam | Rock Climbing

Tips for Beginners - How to get better at Rock Climbing

One of the most common questions I get from my non climbing friends is, “do you need to be strong to start rock climbing?” And I see a lot of beginners quit climbing early on, assuming that they need to get stronger or lose weight before they can try climbing. My response to this in a gist is, “Climbing is a skill based sport”. Read that a couple of times and let it sink in!

As a beginner rock climber, no training can get you to climb better than just climbing itself. To put this in perspective, learning to climb is like a child learning to crawl or walk. It is so apparent in children how our bodies are gifted at natural learning and it is amazing how it adapts to the needs of the mind. How often have you seen kids crushing it in the climbing gym, while a buffed up guy flails on an easy problem? Do you think it is the strength that he lacks? You just need to keep at it, build a solid base and let your body learn and adapt.

In the initial months of climbing, your brain learns and stores hundreds of new movement patterns every climbing session! The more number of times a specific type of move is repeated, the stronger the imprint it creates in the brain and soon becomes second nature. So, the more time you spend climbing and the more variety of moves you try, the faster you will progress.

In fact, I think that being very strong as a beginner could be detrimental because you would have to put in a conscious effort not to use strength, but to learn efficient techniques. On easier climbs where you can just pull your way up, this may seem silly and quite unnecessary. But if the route is climbed in an inefficient way using upper body strength and poor foot technique, that tends to get stored in our brain instead and relearning technique takes much longer at a later stage. The person using poor technique and muscling his way up, will progress to the next couple of grades faster but will plateau soon after. Whereas a weaker person would be forced to manoeuvre his way up the wall in the most efficient way and thus honing down on his techniques early on!

 

curated experiences curated experiences
View All Experiences Now

 

Most beginners covet strength, grades and get sucked into training programs, hang boarding and campus board training and end up burning out quickly. 

The best training for any beginner is just going climbing as much as they can. Pull ups will not make you a better climber, working on your footwork will!

Climbing truly is for all body types and every single person develops their own style of climbing. If you can climb up a few stairs at a time, I would say that should be enough of a prerequisite to enjoy climbing. You need not be lean to start climbing. 

 

Since your legs are used to carrying your weight all through your life, it only makes sense to use them effectively and reduce the load on your arms. Most climbing in the easier grades would just involve learning to load your legs completely on small holds, shifting weight from one leg to another and figuring out your balance in different stances. None of this demands a lean body or arm strength. It is purely technique that one learns over time.

Try and sample everything; every single problem that you can get on and do not hold yourself back because you might fail. This is the one thing that hinders most people from progressing and is hardly addressed. Whatever stage you are in at your climbing, if you’re trying at your limit, you will fail over and over again. Failing is a part of the process; in fact, it makes up most of the process.

If you are a beginner going outdoors with a group, there is a good chance that you might find yourself without a single send for weeks together. You might struggle to send climbs that people warm up on. Do not be disheartened by this and do not let this hold you back from trying. If you watch them at their projects, the process will be the same as what you are currently going through. And their projects will be someone else’s warm up. Climbing progress is very personal but the process and the emotions remain the same across all levels.

As you keep climbing, the intricate muscles and connective tissue required for climbing develop and you get stronger in your own way. At this stage, I feel it is crucial to learn to figure out your own beta (a way up the route). By doing this you will understand your body much better and will be able to figure out a style that plays to your strengths and suits you. There is no one right way to solve a problem. What works for one person might not work for you and vice versa.

Visualising numerous potential beta, sampling it out on the problem, finding the most efficient way and sending it using the least amount of strength can be a very satisfying process. Before you know it, you won’t be able to shut your brain out from trying to solve that one tricky move from the weekend! And you are hooked.

I have seen most beginners ask what the grade of the problem is before they try it, or as soon as they send it. Do not take rock climbing grades too seriously and don’t let them affect your ego in any way. If you send one 6a, do not be demotivated if you can’t figure out a 5a. Do not be bogged down by numbers; as long as it is a challenge, you’re improving at climbing and learning something. Use them as a rough guide and do not let the grades rule what you try and what you don’t.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Indoor climbing is quite different from outdoors, right from the footwork to the grading. Although I must mention that there are a lot of subtleties that can translate well from one to the other. But like training for climbing with pull ups early on, do not expect to crush on your first outdoor session after you have been climbing at the gym regularly for months. The strength gained from the indoor sessions will help, but only after you get used to the climbing holds outdoors and learn to trust your weight to the tiny footholds. If your goal is to climb hard outdoors, try to squeeze in as many outdoor sessions through the week as possible. If your schedule does not let you get outdoors till the weekend, indoor climbing is definitely the next best thing!

A session with any experienced boulderer will be mostly chilling on the pad and just a few minutes of actual climbing. As a beginner, it is common to be psyched to go at it over and over again but that is a guaranteed recipe for injuries. Bouldering at your limit is quite draining. Take at least 5 minutes between attempts and get into the mindset of trying hard before every attempt. Once you see your power draining, call it a day or move to a different problem. Always listen to your body and rest when needed. Almost every injured climber that I’ve spoken to says the same thing; They kind of knew it was coming and they usually regret giving that notorious one last try (it usually never is). Down the road, just understanding your body and not getting injured will help you progress much further than any amount of training ever would.

Enjoy the process! If you are not having fun, what’s the point of the whole thing?

img